For a couple of decades, I restored vintage Hamilton wristwatches. Gradually, I'd grown weary of working on Hamilton 987 movements. Without a supply of parts for Seagull ST-3600 movements, restoring a Swiss watch appealed to me. Starting with a fixer-upper felt like the right approach.
After the pocket watch arrived, I discovered a Unitas 6497 movement. In case you don't know, many people in global amateur watch communities want
OK. I admit finding the movement seemed serendipitous. I tested it and put it in a Parnis case. Performance? I didn't notice any difference between the Unitas and the Seagull that came in the in the original case. Of course, selective perception could have influenced my belief that the Unitas movement ran smoother. I don't know how to prove that.
After some digging, I discovered that Unitas manufactured the movement for Bulova in 1967. That meant it was almost 50 years old and yet ran well. That surprised me.
I went back to eBay and found a pocket watch with a similar looking movement. It had a Unitas 6498 movement and ran well. Brand? Arnex.
As I looked at additional Arnex pocket watches I discovered an interesting similarity. Many of the watches came from estate sales.
I bought two additional Arnex pocket watches advertised as like new. Surprisingly, they were unused. One watch originated as a gift from a groom's party. The owner stuck it in his closet and forgot about it.
The second watch came in the original box. The owner never used it. The price tag remained on the watch. I used a T
Unlike the first watch I purchased, the Arnex models cost an average of $90 each. They needed cleaning and oiling, because they were both made around 1977 given the inscription on the grooms watch.
How I Found the Watches?
Searching for the watches proved difficult. I had to look through so many pages. I shortened the search by selecting "pocket watches" and putting key words in the search box - 17 Jewel Incabloc
From 1971-79, Arnex manufactured most of the pocket watches with 6497 or 6498 movements. The
Even though I had cut the number of items displayed in my search, I still had to comb through the results. I made some mistakes.
I purchased a watch like the one below for $75. Instead of a 6498, I found a Unitas 6325 wristwatch movement. Any of the Arnex models with a small second hand above the numeral VI will have the small movement. Though I looked in numerous places, I couldn't find a case that fit the 6325
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Well, that wasn't my only mistake. Loaded with knowledge of the second hand's position, I bought another Arnex. Oops. It had a Unitas 6431/6445 movement. Instead of a 37 mm movement, it had a 42 mm movement.
What did I learn? Ask the seller the diameter of the case. If it's over 49mm or around two inches, then it will have a big movement.
What About the Seagull?
I hear and read many opinions about Seagull movements. People refer to the ST-3600 as a "clone" and an "Asian 6497". The term clone applies to something genetically identical, for which the Seagull fails to qualify. The movement became available when various watch companies requested a replacement for the Unitas 6497-6498.
The ST-3600 has many similarities to the ETA / Unitas 6497. You could call it a drop-in replacement with several exceptions. Some of those exceptions favor the Seagull movement.
I've read statements in which people say the ST-3600 and ETA/Unitas movements are parts exchangeable. That's not true. Both have unique qualities.
One can use the same dial on both watches. They have the same dimensions. They both have TAP 10 threads for a crown.
Performance is the same as is the basic design. History creates questions, however.
Auguste Reymond began producing the 6497 and 6498 in 1950. It became an instant hit, because of its reputation as robust and reliable. The movement began as a product for pocket watches. It had a reputation as an easy to service movement.
The Unitas movement has a 66 year history. The first Seagull variant went into production around 2006. That's a 10 year history. I haven't seen any 10 year old Seagull movements.
Straight from the factory, the Seagull's need servicing. They do not come pre-oiled or adjusted, that is timed or regulated. Once the service is complete, its performance does match the specifications put out by Seagull.
With a proper service by a professional watchmaker, the price advantage of the Seagull disappears. The ETA/Unitas movements come pre-oiled and adjusted. This is something rarely discussed.
Unitas 6497-98 for less than $100?
When you do a search, you will undoubtedly see ridiculous prices for Arnex pocket watches and their variants.
Keep looking. On a search I made today, I found several Arnex watches in the $65 range. Just be patient.
If you want to do a search on eBay, may I suggest this link. It's Configured for 17 Jewel Incabloc
Learn from my mistakes will