Wednesday, December 3, 2014

Japanese Invicta Men's 9764 II Elite Collection Chrono Super G Watch


The Quartz watch crisis of 1974-1982 saw the failure of 65% of the Swiss watch industry. Of the 1600 active Swiss companies in 1974, only 600 remained registered in 1982. Even though the remained registered, most had failed. Invicta of Switzerland has failed. Without specific evidence, my guess is that the Florida company picked up the registration.

From their website (fair use):


Invicta is led by innovation and nurtured with the consistency of quality and brand personality. Founded more than a century ago in 1837 in Chiasso, Switzerland, with the belief that supremely crafted timepieces can be offered for modest sums, Invicta holds true to this objective today. Originally crafting mechanical and automatic timepieces, Invicta, like most brands of the time all but disappeared during the quartz movement in the 1970’s. 

After being re-established in the early 1990’s, the forward thinking energy of The Invicta Watch Group continues its brazen journey. In 2000 we focused on designing a perfectly fitting, oversized timepiece. This focus delivered the professional dive watch, the Ocean Ghost, and the iconic Lupah collection. The brand has now grown to encompass over 30 diverse collections.

I find the term quartz movement a little fuzzy. Does that mean a quartz watch? A move toward quartz watches? Or does it mean, the Quartz Crisis

Then the phrase "After being re-established". Again, to me that sounds a little fuzzy. What does re-established mean? Did someone re-registered the unregistered charter? If so, then that has given many firms instant heritage and perhaps going back to 1837. 

Invicta watches, for the most part, are true Asian watches . I even like a few models. The ones I had purchased had a Swiss name and Seiko and Miyota movements.
Rolex Original Design

Although Invicta makes its headquarters in the USA, they make many, if not most, of their watches in East Asia. I don't know of any made here. 

Typically, companies like Invicta and Fossil have traditionally used cases, dials, hands, crowns and bands from China. Seiko and Miyota/Citizen furnish the majority of sub-contractor's movements; however, I have found Chinese movements in these brands.

Let's forget all that. Let's address the 9764 II Elite Collection Chrono Super G Watch

I like this particular model for several reasons including its look and feel. 

This is a preowned Invicta Speedway 9764 Men's Chronograph from the Elite II Chrono Super G collection. It's an Invicta designed Chronograph rather than a Daytona design.

It differs from the current Speedway series watches in several ways:
  • It uses subtle Guilloché circles rather than rings around the subdials 
  • Lacks a date function as the original Swiss model
  • Has true gold plating over stainless steal (23K)
  • It's a divers (20 ATM) watch rather than a driver's watch
  • It has a smaller diameter case 38mm vs 40-43mm
  • Weight 75 grams in a smaller case



The 9764 has features similar to the Cosmograph and the look is much closer to the original 1963-72 models.

You can see the primary design differentiation from other Invita models by noticing the width and slope of the tachymeter. That's a significant difference. Secondly, the crown protector lip is smaller and the smaller activator crowns are closer to the center. 

Watch enthusiasts call the Cosmograph Daytona design - "the Paul Newman watch". The design originated in 1963 and stayed in production until 1988. The early models are considered highly collectible. Rolex reissued the design for Baselworld 2013 to celebrate the "Newman Watch's" 50th anniversary. The Speedway design with a mechanical movement is considered the most sought after among chronographs, but they are scarce and expensive. Invicta, among others, have benefited from quartz chronographic movements. This one uses a Seiko VD54B  dual coil movement rather than the VD53B-14 .

Gallery:


Invicta made this wristwatch with the idea of long-term wear - a watch you could keep for years without worry.

This is a model that's difficult to find. It's typical of chronographs I buy - either new from individuals and estates purchased but unworn or preowned and worn only on special occasions.

I put a new leather band on it, which I prefer over the 23K electroplated metal band that came with the original watch. 

Invicta is known for over-sized wristwatches. This is a standard sized watch - not oversized. Older guys like me prefer the smaller Invicta cases - one with a substantial feel, that doesn't overpower the shirtsleeve under my blazer or suit.


The name, Speedway, recognizes the original manufacturer's target market for the watch: Race Car Drivers.

Specifications:


Model number INVICTA-9764
Crystal Fused Mineral Glass
Clasp Fold-Over Clasp with Safety
Metal stamp 23 Kt-gold tones
Case material 23k-Plated-Gold-Tone-Stainless-Steel
Case diameter 40 millimeters
Band Material Genuine Leather
Band length Mens
Band width 20 millimeters
Band Color Brown/Burgandy
Dial color Blue
Bezel material 23k-Gold-Plated-Stainless-Steel
Bezel function Tachometer
Calendar Date
Movement Japanese-Quartz
Water resistant  660 Feet