Thursday, December 11, 2014

Who Manufactures Invicta Watches?

Who Manufactures Invicta Watches? Not Invicta.

Invicta watches are outsourced offshore to some manufacturers, many of whom are in China and some in Japan and Switzerland. That makes me wonder if Mr. Trump's 35% tax might apply to imports of the company's products.

Today, industry analysts say that Invicta has the highest visibility and popularity of any watch company in the world. I can believe it. People consider it an American watch company since it has headquarters in Florida. Interesting enough, they don't manufacture their watches.

Like most watch companies in the current era, Invicta watches are Asian. When I say Asian, I mean made in China. Of course, I expect some flack from this, but then I remain an investigative reporter. Tracking down who does what in the watch industry doesn't present many challenges other than time.

The old, original Swiss Invicta (as opposed to the Florida-based one with the same name) failed during the Quartz Crisis in Switzerland, 1974-82. Before the two largest Swiss holding companies merged to form the Swatch Group, Ltd., the Swiss Invicta Company occupied third place in gross sales among the industry. Keep in mind, that company failed.

Shortly afterward, the company in Florida obtained the brand name similar to how the Swatch Group purchased the Hamilton brand name from a failed Swiss Company. Invicta of Florida can make you believe it's the famous Swiss watch company.

Note this reference:

Invicta Watch Group trades on the name "Invicta Watch Company" which was a company founded in 1837 by Raphael Picard in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. The Picard family had owned and operated the company which produced Swiss mechanical timepieces until the quartz movement revolution in the early 1970s.
In 1991, a United States-based investment company* purchased the Invita brand. The corporate headquarters of Invicta located  to Hollywood, Florida, where the company also operates its customer service call center.
Invicta Watch Company designs their watches and has them made by a variety of contractors. Since China manufactures 98% of world's watches, you can make a relatively safe bet that part, if not all of any manufacturer's watches have China in them.

Who is "the investment company"?

Invicta Capital Management, LLC is a privately owned hedge fund sponsor.

The founder is Mr. Gregory Allen Weaver CFA. He founded the firm on April 1, 2008. Before this, he served as the Senior Vice President at Kern Capital Management LLC, and as its Senior Investment Manager and Principal since 2001 and 1997 respectively. He is the Chief Executive Officer.

Mr. Daniel Capozzo CFA is the Chief Operating Officer and Chief Compliance Officer

The company's offices are located at:

60 East 42nd Street
Suite 2005
One Grand Central Place
New York, NY 10165
United States


Enough with back story

Several discussions exist on watch forums about who does what and what's what. Much of the discussions involve an alpha male watch guy and honest people attempting to find information about the watch they purchased. So, let's clear-up a few details.

Swiss watch manufacturers discovered how to position themselves in 1985 as they emerged from their economic crisis caused by Citizen and Seiko seizing the market with quartz watches. The Swiss simply used historical references and pushed a luxury brand management technique. Some of my research led me to discover organizations buying defunct companies and holding up banners saying they were formed in 1791. That's prestige marketing, which Asian watch companies didn't have until they, too, began buying defunct Swiss companies.

I have an example of a watch perceived as Swiss. It even has the Swiss symbol as part of its logo and markings on their watches. Marketing is perception.


Invicta 3644 Chronograph:


Personally, I know that this Invicta watch is excellent. While a perception exists that Invicta is at least Japanese, it's not. They indicate that they use Japanese movements.

They don't show that the Japanese movements are made somewhere in China and marketed out of Hong Kong. This Invicta watch uses a Seiko Instruments movement. A movement of which one has to buy from Time Module (HK) Ltd. TMI indicates on their home page that they sell "Japan Technology and Quality."

An Invicta Watch to Love

I occasionally buy Invicta Chronographs. I like to wear nice ones. I'm not a fan of Invicta extra-large size cases. I stay in the 40 mm case area. The 3644 is one of my favorites. The case is top of the line stamped and micro-engraved 316L stainless steel. The dial, hands, and crowns are also top of the line.

Invicta could not sell this watch at this price unless someone in China made the case. It's similar to the cases used by Sea-Gull, Parnis, and Nakzen. In fact, I consider the Invicta case slightly superior.

The Invicta 3644 Chronograph

This is a Jubilee-style Invicta Speedway Chronograph.

The 3644 has a 23 K gold-plated stainless steel case with a Jubilee (two-tone, silver and gold-tone) stainless steel link bracelet. It has a usual gold-plated bezel with tachymeter.

I want to note here than the case is gold plated and not PVD coated.

It has a blue gold-plated dial with gold-tone hands and index hour markers. Minute markers around the outer rim. It has luminescent hands and markers, and the date display is between the 4 and 5 o'clock positions.

Since it's a Chronograph, it has three sub-dials displaying: 60 seconds, 60 minutes and 24 hours. It uses a Hardlex crystal, which Invicta calls Flame Fusion Sapphire Coated Mineral.

Hardlex is a unique proprietary watch crystal designed by Seiko to fill the gap between mineral and sapphire glass. It’s a special hardened glass that is much more scratch resistant than mineral glass and a lot more shatter resistant than sapphire crystal. Hardlex can be found on virtually every single Seiko watch that is not using acrylic or sapphire crystal.

The watch has screw down crowns, a solid case back. The dimensions are:

Case diameter: 42 mm.
Case thickness: 13 mm.

It has a fold over clasp with a "better" band than other Speedway models. The band has a safety release clasp.

The case is water resistant at 200 meters / 660 feet.

The movement is made in China. It's a TMI VD53B Seiko Instruments (Minute, 1 / 1 Second Chronograph, 24H Indicator & Calendar) movement.

Here's a summary of specifications.

Specifications:
Model 3644
Series  Speedway
Style  Chronograph
Gender  Men
Case  Stainless steel
Dial Color Primary  Blue
Dial Markers  Gold tone and luminous indices
Band Type  Bracelet
Band Material  Stainless steel with 18k gold plated center link
Water Resistance  200M
Band Length (in.)  9
Band Width (mm.)  20
Case Material  Stainless Steel
Case Back Type  Screw-down
Crown Type  Screw-down
Hand Color(s)  Gold tone and luminous hour and minute; gold tone second and subdial
Bezel Material  Stainless Steel
Clasp  Deployment with safety
Bezel  18k gold plated
Movement  VD53B Seiko Instruments Minute, 1 / 1 Second Chronograph, 24H Indicator & Calendar
Crystal  Flame Fusion Sapphire Coated Mineral
Case Diameter (mm.)  41
Case Thickness (mm.)  13
Calendar  Date display between 4:00 and 5:00
Subdials  60 seconds, 60 minute and 24 hour
Other  Screw-down pushers
Material  Stainless steel

This watch sells at a discount since it's not the most current model. But then, consider it current if it's new with tags.